Friday, October 9, 2009
Tursiops aduncus, Bottlenose Dolphin
The Indo-Pacific Bottlenose Dolphin (Tursiops aduncus) is a species of Bottlenose Dolphin. The Indo-Pacific Bottlenose Dolphin grows to 2.6 metres (8.5 ft) long, and weigh up to 230 kilograms (510 lb).[3] It lives in the waters around India, northern Australia, South China, the Red Sea, and the eastern coast of Africa.[3] Its back is dark-grey and belly is lighter grey or nearly white with grey spots. [3]
Until 1998, all Bottlenose Dolphins were considered members of the single species T. truncatus. In that year, the Indo-Pacific Bottlenose Dolphin was recognized as a separate species.[4][5] The Indo-Pacific Bottlenose Dolphin is generally smaller than the Common Bottlenose Dolphin, has a proportionately longer rostrum, and has spots on its belly and lower sides.[4][6] The Indo-Pacific Bottlenose Dolphin also has more teeth than the Common Bottlenose Dolphin — 23 to 29 teeth on each side of each jaw for the Indo-Pacific Bottlenose Dolphin, compared to 21 to 24 for the Common Bottlenose Dolphin.[6] There is evidence that the Indo-Pacific Bottlenose Dolphin may actually be more closely related to certain dolphin species in the genera Stenella and Delphinus, especially the Atlantic Spotted Dolphin (S. frontalis), than it is to the Common Bottlenose Dolphin.[4][7]
Much of the old scientific data in the field combine data about the Indo-Pacific Bottlenose Dolphin and the Common Bottlenose Dolphin into a single group, making it effectively useless in determining the structural differences between the two species. The IUCN lists both species as data deficient in their Red List of endangered species because of this issue.[8]
Contents [hide]
1 Description
2 Diet
3 Behavior
4 Status and threats
5 Captivity
6 Effects of whale watching
6.1 Japan
6.2 Jervis Bay, Australia
6.3 Shark Bay, Australia
7 References
8 Further reading
[edit] Description
Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphins are very similar to common bottlenose dolphins in appearance. Common bottlenose dolphins have a reasonably strong body, moderate-length beak, and tall curved dorsal fins whereas Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphins are have a more slender body build and their beak is longer and more slender.[9] The Indo-Pacific population also tends to be somewhat lighter in colour and the cape is generally more distinct with a light spinal blaze extending to below the dorsal fin.2 However, although not always present, the most obvious distinction came be made with the presence of black spots or flecks on the bellies of adults of Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphins which are very rare in common bottlenose dolphins.[9] Their teeth can number between 23 and 29 in each upper and lower jaw and are more slender than those of common bottlenose dolphins.[9] Size of Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphins can vary based on geographic location howeverits average length is 2.6 metres (8.5 ft) long, and it weigh up to 230 kilograms (510 lb).[3] Their length at birth is between 0.84 and 1.5 metres (2.8 and 4.9 ft).[3]
[edit] Diet
Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphins feed on a wide variety of fish and cephalopods (particularly squid).[10]
In a recent study conducted by Amir et al. (2005)[10] researchers looked at the feeding ecology of Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphins by analyzing the stomach contents of ones that got caught in the gillnet fisheries off Zanibar, Tanzania. The prey items found in the stomach contents included 50 species of bony fish and 3 species of squid. From their results the researchers concluded that the most important prey group was fish which accounted for 87% of the total number of prey items consumed and occurred in 24 of 26 stomachs examined. Cephalopods comprised the other 13% of prey items and were found in 13 of the 26 stomachs.[10] The remains of some crustaceans were also found however they hypothesize that they were consumed secondarily since a number were found intact in the fish prey stomachs and therefore were not included in the diet analysis.[10]
[edit] Behavior
Indo-Pacific Bottlenose Dolphins live in groups that can number in the hundreds, but groups of 5 to 15 dolphins are most common.[6] In some parts of their range they associate with the Common Bottlenose Dolphin.[6] It also associates with other dolphin species, such as the humpback dolphin.[6]
The Indo-Pacific Bottlenose Dolphin has a peak mating and calving season in spring and summer, although mating and calving occur throughout the year in some regions. Gestation period is about 12 months. Calves are between 0.84 and 1.5 metres (2.8 and 4.9 ft) long, and weigh between 9 and 21 kilograms (20 and 46 lb). The calves are weaned between 1.5 and 2 years, but can remain with their mother for up to 5 years. The interbirth interval for females is typically 4 to 6 years.[3]
In some parts of its range, the Indo-Pacific Bottlenose Dolphin is subject to predation by sharks.[6] The Indo-Pacific Bottlenose Dolphin can live more than 40 years.[3]
Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphins located in Shark Bay, Australia are thought to have a symbiotic relationship with sponges by doing what is called “sponging”. What happens is a dolphin breaks a marine sponge off the sea floor and wears it over its rostrum. It is thought that the reason they do this is to probe substrates for fish however it is still not completely understood if it is used for a tool or simply for play.
[edit] Status and threats
Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphins are not considered to be endangered as a species however, it has a near-shore distribution which makes it vulnerable to environmental degradation, direct exploitation, and problems associated with local fisheries.[11]
The major predators of this species are typically sharks however some others may include humans, killer whales (Orcinus orca) and sting rays. Just recently large numbers of these dolphins were deliberately killed in a Taiwanese drive fishery which greatly impacted the species.[citation needed] It is now prohibited however, gillnets are still having an impact and are a problem not only here but throughout most of the species’ range. In the early 1980s many were killed in a Taiwanese driftnet fishery in the Arafura Sea, off northwestern Australia.[12] Large-mesh nets set to protect bathers from sharks in South Africa and Australia has also resulted in a substantial number of deaths in the Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphins.[13]
[edit] Captivity
Indo-Pacific dolphins are one of many small cetaceans commonly found in captivity.[10] Some of the conservation concerns for animals in captivity include: the effects of removing the animals from their wild populations, survivorship of cetaceans during capture and transport and while in captivity and the risks to wild populations and ecosystems of accidentally introducing alien species and spreading epizootic diseases, especially when animals have been transported over long distances and are held in sea pens.[14]
Bottlenose dolphins are the most common captive cetaceans on a global scale.[14] Prior to 1980 more than 1,500 bottlenose dolphins were collected from the United States, Mexico, and the Bahamas and more than 550 common and 60 Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphins were brought into captivity in Japan.[14] By the late 1980s, the United States stopped collecting bottlenose dolphins and the number of captive-born animals in North American aquariums has increased from only 6 percent in 1976 to about 44 percent in 1996.
[edit] Effects of whale watching
Not much is known about the impact of whale watching on cetaceans but research is being conducted at several locations.
[edit] Japan
Morisaka et al. (2005)[15] conducted a study on three populations of Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphins in Japan. It is believed that characteristics of acoustic signals are affected by the acoustic environments among habitats and geographical variation in animal acoustic signals can result from differences in acoustic environments therefore the characteristics of the ambient noise in the dolphin's habitats and the whistles produced were compared. Ambient noise was recorded using a hydrophone located 10m below the surface and whistles were recorded by using an underwater video system.
Results showed that dolphins produced whistles at varying frequencies with greater modulations when in habitats with less ambient noise whereas habitats with greater ambient noise seem to cause dolphins to produce whistles of lower frequencies and fewer frequency modulations. Examination of the results suggest that communication signals are adaptive and are selected to avoid the masking of signals and the decrease of higher-frequency signals as Tadamichi et al. states in the paper. They concluded that ambient noise has the potential to drive the variation in whistles of Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphin populations.
[edit] Jervis Bay, Australia
Small motorized vessels have increased as a source of anthropogenic noise due to the rise in popularity of wildlife viewing such as whale-watching. Lemon et al. (2006)[16] carried out a study in Australia on bottlenose dolphins to look at whether powerboats are in fact a significant source of disturbance for these animals. The surface behaviour and acoustic response of traveling dolphins to approaches by a powerboat were assessed by a series of experimental trials. Dolphin behaviour was monitored continuously from an independent research boat before, during, and after a powerboat approached. Once a group of traveling dolphins was located, the group was randomly assigned to either a control or treatment condition. During each experimental trial the dolphin's acoustic and surface behaviour were recorded "pre-exposure" with the powerboat stationary and engine off, "on-approach" with the powerboat approaching the focal group, "exposure" with the power boat moving slowly alongside the group, and "post-exposure" when the powerboat had departed from the area. For the control trials the surface and acoustic behaviours were recorded from the research vessel where only the electric motor was used.
Results of the study showed that powerboat approaches altered the surface behaviour and direction of traveling dolphins when exposed to vessels within 100m. Their whistles and echolocation click bouts however, were not affected when approached. When powerboats approached the dolphins they changed their surface behaviour from traveling to milling and changed their direction to travel away from the powerboat. It was not until the powerboat left the area and its noise ceased that the dolphins returned to their preceding behaviour in the original direction.
[edit] Shark Bay, Australia
Another study was carried out by Bejder et al. (2006)[17] in Shark Bay, Western Australia on the behavioural responses of Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphins to experimental vessel approaches in regions of both high and low vessel traffic. Data was collected from two different sites that had different histories of vessel activity: high vessel activity classified as the impact site and low vessel activity classified as the control site. A team of researchers evaluated group-level, non-vocal, behavioural responses of dolphins 15 minutes before, during and after approaches by an experimental vessel. For each experiment observers selected a focal dolphin group based on the group's proximity to the shore station and the absence of any vessels within 300m. After the focal group was selected, observers on the shore recorded behavioural data for 15 minutes. Then vessel-based observers were directed towards the focal group and collected data once within 50m of the group. Throughout the 15 minute period, shore observers continued to record behavioural data while the vessel maintained a distance of 10-50m from the focal group. Observers aboard the experimental vessel identified individual dolphins in the focal group taking dorsal fin photographs. When the experimental vessel was beyond 300m of the focal group, the shore team continued to monitor the behaviour and movements of the focal group for another 15min. Tour vessel movements were also tracked using GPS to show focal group movements during the experiment.
Results show that there were significant changes in the behaviour of targeted dolphins when compared with their behaviour before and after approaches. Dolphins in the control site showed a stronger and longer-lasting response than dolphins in the impact site. It is believed that these results show habituation of the dolphins to the vessels in a region of long-term vessel traffic. However, when compared to other studies in the same area, it is suggested that this study documented moderated responses not because of habituation occurring but because those individuals sensitive to vessel disturbance left the region before their study began.
Although these studies do show statistical significance for the effects of whale-watching boats,these results do not have biological significance and need to be researched further.
[edit] References
^ Mead, James G. and Robert L. Brownell, Jr (November 16, 2005). Wilson, D. E., and Reeder, D. M. (eds). ed. Mammal Species of the World (3rd edition ed.). Johns Hopkins University Press. pp. 723–743. ISBN 0-801-88221-4. http://www.bucknell.edu/msw3/browse.asp?id=14300098.
^ Hammond, P.S., Bearzi, G., Bjørge, A., Forney, K., Karczmarski, L., Kasuya, T., Perrin, W.F., Scott, M.D., Wang, J.Y., Wells, R.S. & Wilson, B. (2008). Tursiops aduncus. 2008 IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. IUCN 2008. Retrieved on 7 October 2008.
^ a b c d e f g Shirihai, H. and Jarrett, B. (2006). Whales Dolphins and Other Marine Mammals of the World. p. 159–161. ISBN 0-691-12757-3.
^ a b c Wells, R. and Scott, M. (2002). "Bottlenose Dolphins". in Perrin, W.; Wursig, B. and Thewissen, J.. Encyclopedia of Marine Mammals. Academic Press. p. 122–127. ISBN 0-12-551340-2.
^ Möller Luciana M., Beheregaray Luciano B. 2001. Coastal bottlenose dolphins from southeastern Australia are Tursiops aduncus according to sequences of the mitochondrial DNA control region. Marine Mammal Science 17(2): 249-263.
^ a b c d e f Reeves, R.; Stewart, B.; Clapham, P.; Powell, J. (2002). Guide to Marine Mammals of the World. p. 362–365. ISBN 0-375-41141-0.
^ Leduc, R., Perrin, W. & Dizon, E. (August 18, 1998). "Phylogenetic Relationships among the Delphinid Cetaceans Based on Full Cytochrome B Sequences". Marine Mammal Science 15 (3): 619–648. doi:10.1111/j.1748-7692.1999.tb00833.x. http://www3.interscience.wiley.com/journal/119937779/abstract. Retrieved 2008-10-05.
^ "Tursiops truncatus: Species Information". IUCN. http://www.iucnredlist.org/search/details.php?species=22563. Retrieved 2006-11-03.
^ a b c Worlds Creatures. 2004. Indo-Pacific Bottlenose Dolphin. Retrieved March 28, 2008 from the website: http://www.worldscreatures.com/water-species/dolphins/indo-pacific-bottlenose-dolphin.htm.
^ a b c d e Amir Omar A., Per Berggren, Simon Ndaro G.M., Narriman Jiddawi S. 2005. Feeding ecology of the Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphin (Tursiops aduncus) incidentally caught in the gillnets fisheries off Zanzibar, Tanzania. Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science 63(3): 429-437.
^ Curry, B.E. and Smith, J. 1997. Phylogeographic structure of the bottlenose dolphin (Tursiops truncatus): stock identification and implications for management. In: A.E. Dizon, S.J. Chivers, and W.F. Perrin (eds) Molecular Genetics of Marine Mammals, pp. 227-247. Society for Marine Mammalogy, Special Publication No. 3, Allen Press, Lawrence, Kansas.
^ Harwood, M.B. and Hembree, D. 1987. Incidental catch of small cetaceans in the offshore gillnet fishery in northern Australian waters: 1981-1985. Report of the International Whaling Commission 37: 363-367.
^ Peddemors, V.M. 1999. Delphinids of southern Africa: a review of their distribution, status and life history. Journal of Cetacean Research and Management 1: 157-165.
^ a b c Fisher Sue J., Reeves Randall R. 2005. The Global Trade in Live Cetaceans: Implications for Conservation. Journal of International Wildlife Law and Policy 8: 315-340
^ Morisaka Tadamichi, Shinohara Masanori, Nakahara Fumio, Akamatsu Tomonari. 2005. Effects of Ambient Noise on the Whistles of Indo-Pacific Bottlenose Dolphin Populations. Journal of Mammalogy 84(3): 541-546.
^ Lemon Michelle, Lynch Tim P., Cato Douglas H., Harcourt Robert G. 2006. Response of traveling bottlenose dolphins (Tursiops aduncus) to experimental approaches by a powerboat in Jervis Bay, New South Wales, Australia. Biological Conservation 127:363-372
^ Bejder Lars, Samuels Amy, Whitehead Hal, Gales Nick. 2006. Interpreting short-term behavioural responses to disturbance within a longitudinal perspective. Animal Behaviour 72: 1149-1158
[edit] Further reading
Cockcroft VG, Ross GJB. 1990. Age, growth, and reproduction of bottlenose dolphins Tursiops truncatus from the east coast of southern Africa. Fishery Bulletin 88(2): 289-302.
Moller Luciana M., Beheregaray Luciano B., Allen Simon J., Harcourt Robert G. 2006. Association patterns and kinship in female Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphins (Tursiops aduncus) of southeastern Australia. Behavioural Ecology Sociobiology 61: 109-117.
Nowacek Stephanie M., Wells Randall S., Solow Andrew R. 2001. Short-term effects of boat traffic on bottlenose dolphins, Tursiops truncatus, in Sarasota Bay, Florida. Marine Mammal Science 17(4): 673-688.
Schroeder, J. Pete. Breeding Bottlenose Dolphins in Captivity. In The Bottlenose Dolphin, edited by Stephen Leatherwood and Randall R. Reeves, pp. 435-446. San Diego: Academic Press, Inc., 1990.
Shane Susan H., Wells Randall S., Wursig Bernd. 1986. Ecology, behaviour and social organization of the bottlenose dolphin: a review. Marine Mammal Science 2(1): 34-63.
Urian, K.W., Duffield D.A., Read A.J., Wells R.S., Shell E.D. 1996. Seasonality of Reproduction in Bottlenose Dolphins, Tursiops truncatus. Journal of Mammalogy, 77(2): 394-403.
Wells, Randall S., Scott Michael D., Irvine Blair A. The Social Structure of Free-ranging Bottlenose Dolphins. In Current Mammalogy, Volume 1, edited by H.H. Genoways, pp. 247- 305. New York: Plenum Press, 1987.
[show]v • d • eExtant Cetacea species
Kingdom Animalia · Phylum Chordata · Class Mammalia · Infraclass Eutheria · Superorder Laurasiatheria · (unranked) Cetartiodactyla · (unranked) Whippomorpha
[show] Suborder Mysticeti (Baleen whales)
Balaenidae Balaena Bowhead Whale (B. mysticetus)
Eubalaena
(Right whales) Southern Right Whale (E. australis) · North Atlantic Right Whale (E. glacialis) · North Pacific Right Whale (E. japonica)
Balaenopteridae
(Rorquals) Balaenoptera Common Minke Whale (B. acutorostrata) · Antarctic Minke Whale (B. bonaerensis) · Sei Whale (B. borealis) · Bryde's Whale (B. brydei) · Pygmy Bryde's Whale (B. edeni) · Blue Whale (B. musculus) · B. omurai · Fin Whale (B. physalus)
Megaptera Humpback Whale (M. novaeangliae)
Eschrichtiidae Eschrichtius Gray Whale (E. robustus)
Neobalaenidae Caperea Pygmy Right Whale (C. marginata)
[hide] Suborder Odontoceti (Toothed whales) (cont. below)
Delphinidae
(Oceanic dolphins) Cephalorhynchus Commerson's Dolphin (C. commersonii) · Chilean Dolphin (C. eutropia) · Haviside's Dolphin (C. heavisidii) · Hector's Dolphin (C. hectori)
Delphinus Long-beaked Common Dolphin (D. capensis) · Short-beaked Common Dolphin (D. delphis)
Feresa Pygmy Killer Whale (F. attenuata)
Globicephala
(Pilot whales) Short-finned Pilot Whale (G. macrorhynchus) · Long-finned Pilot Whale (G. melas)
Grampus Risso's Dolphin (G. griseus)
Lagenodelphis Fraser's Dolphin (L. hosei)
Lagenorhynchus Atlantic White-sided Dolphin (L. acutus) · White-beaked Dolphin (L. albirostris) · Peale's Dolphin (L. australis) · Hourglass Dolphin (L. cruciger) · Pacific White-sided Dolphin (L. obliquidens) · Dusky Dolphin (L. obscurus)
Lissodelphis
(Right whale dolphins) Northern Right Whale Dolphin (L. borealis) · Southern Right Whale Dolphin (L. peronii)
Orcaella Irrawaddy Dolphin (O. brevirostris) · Australian Snubfin Dolphin (O. heinsohni)
Orcinus Killer Whale (O. orca)
Peponocephala Melon-headed Whale (P. electra)
Pseudorca False Killer Whale (P. crassidens)
Sotalia Tucuxi (S. fluviatilis) · Costero (S. guianensis)
Sousa Pacific Humpback Dolphin (S. chinensis) · Indian Humpback Dolphin (S. plumbea) · Atlantic Humpback Dolphin (S. teuszii)
Stenella Pantropical Spotted Dolphin (S. attenuata) · Clymene Dolphin (S. clymene) · Striped Dolphin (S. coeruleoalba) · Atlantic Spotted Dolphin (S. frontalis) · Spinner Dolphin (S. longirostris)
Steno Rough-toothed Dolphin (S. bredanensis)
Tursiops Indo-Pacific Bottlenose Dolphin (T. aduncus) · Common Bottlenose Dolphin (T. truncatus)
[show] Suborder Odontoceti (Toothed whales) (cont. above)
Monodontidae Delphinapterus Beluga (D. leucas)
Monodon Narwhal (M. monoceros)
Phocoenidae
(Porpoises) Neophocaena Finless Porpoise (N. phocaeniodes)
Phocoena Spectacled Porpoise (P. dioptrica) · Harbor Porpoise (P. phocoena) · Vaquita (P. sinus) · Burmeister's Porpoise (P. spinipinnis)
Phocoenoides Dall's Porpoise (P. dalli)
Physeteridae Physeter Sperm Whale (P. macrocephalus)
Kogiidae Kogia Pygmy sperm whale (K. breviceps) · Dwarf sperm whale (K. simus)
Iniidae Inia Amazon River Dolphin (I. geoffrensis)
Lipotidae Lipotes Baiji (L. vexillifer)
Platanistidae Platanista Ganges and Indus River Dolphin (P. gangetica)
Pontoporiidae Pontoporia La Plata Dolphin (P. blainvillei)
Ziphidae
(Beaked whales) Berardius Arnoux's Beaked Whale (B. arnuxii) · Baird's Beaked Whale (B. bairdii)
Hyperoodon Northern Bottlenose Whale (H. ampullatus) · Southern Bottlenose Whale (H. planifrons)
Indopacetus Tropical Bottlenose Whale (I. pacificus)
Mesoplodon
(Mesoplodont
whales) Sowerby's Beaked Whale (M. bidens) · Andrew's Beaked Whale (M. bowdoini) · Hubbs' Beaked Whale (M. carlhubbsi) · Blainville's Beaked Whale (M. densirostris) · Gervais' Beaked Whale (M. europaeus) · Ginkgo-toothed Beaked Whale (M. ginkgodens) · Gray's Beaked Whale (M. grayi) · Hector's Beaked Whale (M. hectori) · Strap-toothed Whale (M. layardii) · True's Beaked Whale (M. mirus) · Pygmy Beaked Whale (M. peruvianus) · Perrin's Beaked Whale (M. perrini) · Stejneger's Beaked Whale (M. stejnegeri) · Spade-toothed Whale (M. traversii)
Tasmacetus Shepherd's Beaked Whale (T. sheperdi)
Ziphius Cuvier's Beaked Whale (Z. cavirostris)
Retrieved from "http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indo-Pacific_Bottlenose_Dolphin"
Categories: IUCN Red List data deficient species | Oceanic dolphins
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The Brothers Cazamero
Kayak Paddling Techniques
by Marty Grabijasfirst appeared in Kayak Touring 2005
A forward stroke is one of paddling’s “gifts.” Your first lesson in how to execute a forward stroke probably sounded something like, “Plant at your feet and pull on the paddle.” While that explanation got you moving forward, it would do little to help you make time to your destination when the sun is getting low and shadows are getting long. Learning a powerful and efficient forward stroke is less about muscle and more about proper technique that must be perfectly practiced until it is automatic. And that perfect practice will keep you going out on the water over and over—hence one of paddling’s gifts—experiencing epic sunsets and sublime moments when other paddlers are at home watching reality television.
While everyone’s body moves and functions differently, efficient and powerful forward strokes carry three universal traits: powerful rotation of the torso, which originates in the hips; a silent and deliberate plant; and applying full force in the first seven to eight inches of the stroke with the paddle shaft as vertical as possible.
Top indicators for achieving massive torso rotation
Here we see that the paddler’s body is fully rotated—so much so that the paddle is almost parallel with the boat’s keel line.
Looking at the PFD, you can see that the front zipper is well off to the side, indicating that the rotation is happening deep in the torso and not just in the shoulders.
While there is tension in the torso that is ready to be unleashed, the paddler’s arms are relaxed, and the paddle is poised for a powerful plant.
When it’s done properly, you should even feel your butt shifting position in your seat as you rotate.
Technique tune-up tip: Hold your paddle in the air parallel to the keel and at shoulder-to-eye height between each stroke for 20 strokes when you first get out on the water. Count “one thousand, two thousand” and then plant. Olympic sprint racers call this “air time.” It helps develop rotation, balance, and a powerful plant.
How to make your paddle plant silent and powerful
Your paddle blade should enter the water with just a whisper.
The paddle blade should enter the water tight to the boat, and the shaft should be more vertical than you are probably used to.
The plant and pulling on the blade are two separate and distinct movements—fully rotate and then submerge the blade with a stabbing motion before pulling.
Keeping your grip loose will allow you to extend your plant.
Technique tune-up tip: Place a small piece of duct tape on your deck two inches ahead of where you typically plant. Let this be your target. Try to hit it by rotating your torso and relaxing your grip—not by bobbing forward at the waist.
Unleash the power
If you have done everything correctly, your torso will be wound up at the hips, ready to unleash the power that is stored.
Visualize lifting your butt off the seat with only your foot connecting to the foot brace and your blade connecting to the water.
Stop applying power almost immediately—when the blade reaches your knee or sooner.
Technique tune-up tip: Sit up straight and keep your grip loose. Try to lose contact with your cockpit’s back band—this is a good indicator that you are indeed sitting upright and not just in your usual everyday position. A loose grip will keep your body relaxed and poised for powerful and effortless miles.
Like a martial artist practicing a specific sequence for years and striving for fluidity, you should focus your technique work on achieving perfect form. Moving the boat faster with less effort will come as a by-product of proper technique.Marty Grabijas is an ACA Instructor for Coastal Kayaking and an Instructor Trainer for Whitewater Kayaking.
A forward stroke is one of paddling’s “gifts.” Your first lesson in how to execute a forward stroke probably sounded something like, “Plant at your feet and pull on the paddle.” While that explanation got you moving forward, it would do little to help you make time to your destination when the sun is getting low and shadows are getting long. Learning a powerful and efficient forward stroke is less about muscle and more about proper technique that must be perfectly practiced until it is automatic. And that perfect practice will keep you going out on the water over and over—hence one of paddling’s gifts—experiencing epic sunsets and sublime moments when other paddlers are at home watching reality television.
While everyone’s body moves and functions differently, efficient and powerful forward strokes carry three universal traits: powerful rotation of the torso, which originates in the hips; a silent and deliberate plant; and applying full force in the first seven to eight inches of the stroke with the paddle shaft as vertical as possible.
Top indicators for achieving massive torso rotation
Here we see that the paddler’s body is fully rotated—so much so that the paddle is almost parallel with the boat’s keel line.
Looking at the PFD, you can see that the front zipper is well off to the side, indicating that the rotation is happening deep in the torso and not just in the shoulders.
While there is tension in the torso that is ready to be unleashed, the paddler’s arms are relaxed, and the paddle is poised for a powerful plant.
When it’s done properly, you should even feel your butt shifting position in your seat as you rotate.
Technique tune-up tip: Hold your paddle in the air parallel to the keel and at shoulder-to-eye height between each stroke for 20 strokes when you first get out on the water. Count “one thousand, two thousand” and then plant. Olympic sprint racers call this “air time.” It helps develop rotation, balance, and a powerful plant.
How to make your paddle plant silent and powerful
Your paddle blade should enter the water with just a whisper.
The paddle blade should enter the water tight to the boat, and the shaft should be more vertical than you are probably used to.
The plant and pulling on the blade are two separate and distinct movements—fully rotate and then submerge the blade with a stabbing motion before pulling.
Keeping your grip loose will allow you to extend your plant.
Technique tune-up tip: Place a small piece of duct tape on your deck two inches ahead of where you typically plant. Let this be your target. Try to hit it by rotating your torso and relaxing your grip—not by bobbing forward at the waist.
Unleash the power
If you have done everything correctly, your torso will be wound up at the hips, ready to unleash the power that is stored.
Visualize lifting your butt off the seat with only your foot connecting to the foot brace and your blade connecting to the water.
Stop applying power almost immediately—when the blade reaches your knee or sooner.
Technique tune-up tip: Sit up straight and keep your grip loose. Try to lose contact with your cockpit’s back band—this is a good indicator that you are indeed sitting upright and not just in your usual everyday position. A loose grip will keep your body relaxed and poised for powerful and effortless miles.
Like a martial artist practicing a specific sequence for years and striving for fluidity, you should focus your technique work on achieving perfect form. Moving the boat faster with less effort will come as a by-product of proper technique.Marty Grabijas is an ACA Instructor for Coastal Kayaking and an Instructor Trainer for Whitewater Kayaking.
Introduction To Hawaiian Outrigger Canoeing
Makaha Makahiki 2009
Hawaiian Outrigger Canoe Kioloa (Seat Positions and Canoe Nomenclature)
Hawaiian Paddlilng Words
Hawaiian Language: paddling termsby Terry Wallace
Ho‘owala‘au wa‘a - canoe talk.
Ha‘awina (lesson)
In every sport or job there is a special language. Words are used in this specialty like no other. For example, Navy terms. This also works for paddling the Hawaiian canoe.
If Na Ho‘okele (steerers) use the same language for commands universally, there will be little or no confusion on the part of the paddlers. These commands can and should be used to familiarize the crew with the language. The same language used consistently also gives
Ho‘okele (steerer) control of the canoe and used to the idea of giving commands.
UNE = pronounced OO-NAY. To “lever.”This is the action
MUA (stroker and sometimes others) takes to help HO‘OKELE (steerer) turn the bow of the canoe going around the turn flag. This can be ANY movement of the paddle, from a J-stroke to paddling toward the hull. I have heard this term mis-pronounced UNI = OO-NEE. This word is not in the Hawaiian dictionary.
KAHI = pronounced, KAH-HEE. To “cut.”Holds the paddle still, blade “cutting” in the same line as the canoe. No “action” taken.
PAHI = pronounced PAH-HEE. Edge, the blade or knife edge.
These are commands that can be used by Ho`okele in the canoe.
‘E ‘E! = pronounced ay ay (this is hard to describe..... actually a very short “‘e”). Get in the canoe!
HO‘OMAKAUKAU! = pronounced Hoh oh MAH cow cow. Get ready or get set! This can be whatever you think “get set” means. Paddle across the gunwales, or poised to plant the blade in the water or whatever.
KAU! = pronounced kah oo. Place (or plant) the blade!
If it’s training:HOE = pronounced ho aee. Paddle! And off you go.
If it’s racing:
HUKI!!!!!!!!!! = pronounced hoo key. Pull, GET INTO IT!
All of the following terms are from either Hawaiian Dictionary by Pukui & Elbert or The Hawaiian Canoe by Tommy Holmes
Many of these terms have other meaning as well as allegorical meanings or Kaona (the hidden meaning) other than used here.
Some kinds of Hawaiian Canoes:
wa‘a: generic term for canoe
heihei: a race of any kind including a canoe race
‘au wa‘a: a fleet of canoes
‘auwa‘a ‘a ho‘`apipi: two canoes hastily joined to form or to use as a double canoe
wa‘a kaulua: another term for double canoe
kaukahi: a single canoe with an outrigger
kialoa: a long, light, and swift canoe used for racing & display. This term may also refer to a beautiful woman and her shape. Queen Ka‘ahumanu was referred to as “Kialoa” in her youth.
Ko‘okahi: OC1
Ko‘olua: OC2
Ko‘oha: OC4
Ko‘eono: OC6
Wa‘a ‘Apulu: an old, worn-out canoe. Also an old person.
Ho‘owala‘au wa‘a - canoe talk.
Ha‘awina (lesson)
In every sport or job there is a special language. Words are used in this specialty like no other. For example, Navy terms. This also works for paddling the Hawaiian canoe.
If Na Ho‘okele (steerers) use the same language for commands universally, there will be little or no confusion on the part of the paddlers. These commands can and should be used to familiarize the crew with the language. The same language used consistently also gives
Ho‘okele (steerer) control of the canoe and used to the idea of giving commands.
UNE = pronounced OO-NAY. To “lever.”This is the action
MUA (stroker and sometimes others) takes to help HO‘OKELE (steerer) turn the bow of the canoe going around the turn flag. This can be ANY movement of the paddle, from a J-stroke to paddling toward the hull. I have heard this term mis-pronounced UNI = OO-NEE. This word is not in the Hawaiian dictionary.
KAHI = pronounced, KAH-HEE. To “cut.”Holds the paddle still, blade “cutting” in the same line as the canoe. No “action” taken.
PAHI = pronounced PAH-HEE. Edge, the blade or knife edge.
These are commands that can be used by Ho`okele in the canoe.
‘E ‘E! = pronounced ay ay (this is hard to describe..... actually a very short “‘e”). Get in the canoe!
HO‘OMAKAUKAU! = pronounced Hoh oh MAH cow cow. Get ready or get set! This can be whatever you think “get set” means. Paddle across the gunwales, or poised to plant the blade in the water or whatever.
KAU! = pronounced kah oo. Place (or plant) the blade!
If it’s training:HOE = pronounced ho aee. Paddle! And off you go.
If it’s racing:
HUKI!!!!!!!!!! = pronounced hoo key. Pull, GET INTO IT!
All of the following terms are from either Hawaiian Dictionary by Pukui & Elbert or The Hawaiian Canoe by Tommy Holmes
Many of these terms have other meaning as well as allegorical meanings or Kaona (the hidden meaning) other than used here.
Some kinds of Hawaiian Canoes:
wa‘a: generic term for canoe
heihei: a race of any kind including a canoe race
‘au wa‘a: a fleet of canoes
‘auwa‘a ‘a ho‘`apipi: two canoes hastily joined to form or to use as a double canoe
wa‘a kaulua: another term for double canoe
kaukahi: a single canoe with an outrigger
kialoa: a long, light, and swift canoe used for racing & display. This term may also refer to a beautiful woman and her shape. Queen Ka‘ahumanu was referred to as “Kialoa” in her youth.
Ko‘okahi: OC1
Ko‘olua: OC2
Ko‘oha: OC4
Ko‘eono: OC6
Wa‘a ‘Apulu: an old, worn-out canoe. Also an old person.
Hawaiian Paddling Words
Just For Fun... Hawaiian Paddling Words:
'aha: braided or twisted cord used in lashing the canoe
'akea: hull of an outrigger canoe
ama: float on an outrigger canoe
awa: harbor, port, cove
hana ka hoe, Pa'a ka waha: don't talk, just paddle
heohei wa'a: canoe race
hoe: paddle; to paddle
huli: to turn or flip over; capsize
ikaika: strong; powerful
kai: ocean; sea
le'ala'a: fun
maika'i loa: excellence
makai: towards the ocean
malia: a class of canoe
manulele: flying bird
mauka: inland - towards the mountains
ohana: family
okole: butt
nalu: wave
piliahola: friendship
'uhane hele: travelling spirit
wa'a: canoe
wa'a kaukahi: a single-hulled canoe
wa'a kaulua: double-hulled canoe
'aha: braided or twisted cord used in lashing the canoe
'akea: hull of an outrigger canoe
ama: float on an outrigger canoe
awa: harbor, port, cove
hana ka hoe, Pa'a ka waha: don't talk, just paddle
heohei wa'a: canoe race
hoe: paddle; to paddle
huli: to turn or flip over; capsize
ikaika: strong; powerful
kai: ocean; sea
le'ala'a: fun
maika'i loa: excellence
makai: towards the ocean
malia: a class of canoe
manulele: flying bird
mauka: inland - towards the mountains
ohana: family
okole: butt
nalu: wave
piliahola: friendship
'uhane hele: travelling spirit
wa'a: canoe
wa'a kaukahi: a single-hulled canoe
wa'a kaulua: double-hulled canoe
Paddling Techniques And Exercise Advice
Outrigger Paddling
Paddling technique is not so much a matter of definitives but rather a series of theories and opinions. However over recent years where paddle-sports have taken on a higher professional profile so too has there been a deeper study into the mechanics of efficient paddling techniques related to any given paddle craft. Jason Somerville-Kimlin of Mooloolaba Outrigger Canoe Club, formerly of Outrigger Australia and one of Australia's most respected and experienced outrigger paddlers, outlines what is currently being promoted as the most efficient use of both body and blade.
AN EFFICIENT TECHNIQUE IS THE KEY TO ENJOYABLE AND FAST OUTRIGGER CANOEING. In any endurance sport efficiency is the key to getting the best results with the least amount of effort and of all canoeing, outrigger and marathon racing puts the highest premium on efficiency. Observing a canoe race, you'll notice the leaders go by looking relaxed and going fast. Sometimes they don't appear to be working very hard. Then the rest of the teams follow, each one going slower but appearing to be working much harder than the leaders. What's going on here? Do the leaders have a much faster canoe? The fact is, they are simply much more efficient in their technique than the teams which they are beating. Outrigger canoe racing is an endurance sport. The leaders of a cross-country ski race or a runner in a marathon or triathlon appear to be gliding along with minimal effort. Their motions are just enough to get the job done without wasting precious energy. Hence the rule in endurance sports: WORKING HARD DOES NOT ENSURE THAT YOU ARE GOING TO GO FAST! You can take your paddle and attack the water with it, straining every muscle in your body, throwing up big rooster-tails behind you, or you can slice your blade into the water, anchoring it solidly and using your entire torso, pulling it smoothly and evenly with much better results. Not only is good technique energy-saving and fast, it is easy to learn because it is so simple. Part of the learning process requires that you have a clear picture in your mind of how a paddler moves the canoe through the water. THE CANOE IS BEING PULLED FORWARD THROUGH THE WATER UP TO THE PADDLE, WHICH ACTS AS AN ANCHOR IN-THE WATER (AKIN TO A MOUNTAINEER CLIMBING UPWARD WITH THEIR ICE AXE). THE CANOE IS BEING PULLED FORWARD NOT PUSHED. Reach forward as far as you can without bending or hinging at the waist, at the beginning of the stroke. Remember this principle and you overcome one of the major technical problems most canoeists have, that is, trying to move the canoe forward by pushing through entering the paddle too far back and continuing the stroke too far behind. TO PULL RATHER THAN PUSH THE CANOE THROUGH THE WATER, REACH FORWARD AS FAR AS YOU CAN (WITHOUT BENDING OR HINGING AT THE WAIST) AT THE BEGINNING OF THE STROKE AND END THE STROKE JUST BEFORE YOUR LOWER HAND REACHES YOUR HIP. Use your body in the stroke. Most paddlers are all arms, attempting to generate all the power with the relatively small bicep and tricep muscles of the arms rather than using, in combination, the muscles of the torso which are far larger and more capable. By keeping the stroke in front of you, you will be leaning slightly forward and you using the stomach and back muscles by rotating on (around) your spine. Dropping your lower shoulder and rotating, you will be able to extend and pull on that arm using the latissimus dorsi muscle of your back. Using the larger, stronger muscles of the torso is one of the secrets behind the leaders looking less wiped out at the finish line than the stragglers. Entering the blade rather than attacking, or stabbing at the water place the blade cleanly in the water. Do not start the stroke until the blade is in the water (this will cause cavitation and you will not get full power from your stroke). A clean, silent entry is the beginning of a good stroke. Note too, that your lower arm should be fully extended and straight. Pull the canoe up to the blade and firmly anchor the blade in deeply before making the pull; pull down and across with your top hand and down and back with your lower hand, keeping your elbows locked. If you have sliced the blade in cleanly and buried the whole blade in the water you will have a solid anchor from which you can pull the canoe. You have now come to the main part of the stroke where your objective is to lever yourself and the canoe forward to the anchor point of the paddle. Your lower body should be firmly positioned in the canoe to fully transfer energy from the paddle to the canoe. Likewise, you do not want any extra movement in your arms that would absorb or deflect energy from moving the canoe forward. This involves keeping your arms in the entry position, swinging down and through from your shoulders. Try to push down and across with your top hand and pull down and back on your lower hand, smoothly and equally. Watch your hands and make sure that they move through the stroke at the same rate, neither faster than the other. End the stroke just before your lower hand reaches your hip.
Helpful Hints
Try the techniques shown with locked elbows, this will force you to sit up and rotate.
Add the minimum bend necessary to your arms for comfort.
Try to keep a flat back and keep your chin up, this will afford the maximum oxygen and will help keep your shoulder and neck muscles relaxed.
Don't forget to get drive from your leading leg.
Keep your face muscles relaxed and remember to breath!
Keep your concentration in the canoe and remember that is it the thoughtful application of power that makes each and every stroke count.
Cardiovascular Exercise and Fitness Paddling
In any endurance sport efficiency is the key to getting the best results with the least amount of effort and of all canoeing, outrigger and marathon racing puts the highest premium on efficiency. Observing a canoe race, you'll notice the leaders go by looking relaxed and going fast. Sometimes they don't appear to be working very hard. Then the rest of the teams follow, each one going slower but appearing to be working much harder than the leaders. What's going on here? Do the leaders have a much faster canoe? The fact is, they are simply much more efficient in their technique than the teams which they are beating. Outrigger canoe racing is an endurance sport. The leaders of a cross-country ski race or a runner in a marathon or triathlon appear to be gliding along with minimal effort. Their motions are just enough to get the job done without wasting precious energy. Hence the rule in endurance sports: WORKING HARD DOES NOT ENSURE THAT YOU ARE GOING TO GO FAST! You can take your paddle and attack the water with it, straining every muscle in your body, throwing up big rooster-tails behind you, or you can slice your blade into the water, anchoring it solidly and using your entire torso, pulling it smoothly and evenly with much better results. Not only is good technique energy-saving and fast, it is easy to learn because it is so simple. Part of the learning process requires that you have a clear picture in your mind of how a paddler moves the canoe through the water. THE CANOE IS BEING PULLED FORWARD THROUGH THE WATER UP TO THE PADDLE, WHICH ACTS AS AN ANCHOR IN-THE WATER (AKIN TO A MOUNTAINEER CLIMBING UPWARD WITH THEIR ICE AXE). THE CANOE IS BEING PULLED FORWARD NOT PUSHED. Reach forward as far as you can without bending or hinging at the waist, at the beginning of the stroke. Remember this principle and you overcome one of the major technical problems most canoeists have, that is, trying to move the canoe forward by pushing through entering the paddle too far back and continuing the stroke too far behind. TO PULL RATHER THAN PUSH THE CANOE THROUGH THE WATER, REACH FORWARD AS FAR AS YOU CAN (WITHOUT BENDING OR HINGING AT THE WAIST) AT THE BEGINNING OF THE STROKE AND END THE STROKE JUST BEFORE YOUR LOWER HAND REACHES YOUR HIP. Use your body in the stroke. Most paddlers are all arms, attempting to generate all the power with the relatively small bicep and tricep muscles of the arms rather than using, in combination, the muscles of the torso which are far larger and more capable. By keeping the stroke in front of you, you will be leaning slightly forward and you using the stomach and back muscles by rotating on (around) your spine. Dropping your lower shoulder and rotating, you will be able to extend and pull on that arm using the latissimus dorsi muscle of your back. Using the larger, stronger muscles of the torso is one of the secrets behind the leaders looking less wiped out at the finish line than the stragglers. Entering the blade rather than attacking, or stabbing at the water place the blade cleanly in the water. Do not start the stroke until the blade is in the water (this will cause cavitation and you will not get full power from your stroke). A clean, silent entry is the beginning of a good stroke. Note too, that your lower arm should be fully extended and straight. Pull the canoe up to the blade and firmly anchor the blade in deeply before making the pull; pull down and across with your top hand and down and back with your lower hand, keeping your elbows locked. If you have sliced the blade in cleanly and buried the whole blade in the water you will have a solid anchor from which you can pull the canoe. You have now come to the main part of the stroke where your objective is to lever yourself and the canoe forward to the anchor point of the paddle. Your lower body should be firmly positioned in the canoe to fully transfer energy from the paddle to the canoe. Likewise, you do not want any extra movement in your arms that would absorb or deflect energy from moving the canoe forward. This involves keeping your arms in the entry position, swinging down and through from your shoulders. Try to push down and across with your top hand and pull down and back on your lower hand, smoothly and equally. Watch your hands and make sure that they move through the stroke at the same rate, neither faster than the other. End the stroke just before your lower hand reaches your hip.
Everyone knows that exercising is one of most powerful things you can do to improve your health. Regular cardiovascular exercise makes your heart stronger and more efficient, burns calories, lowers your blood pressure and helps keep you mentally sharp. However, it is important to exercise properly to get optimum results and help you achieve your goals. With today's busy schedules, no one has time to waste on ineffective or inefficient exercise. Performing cardiovascular work at the correct level of intensity is essential. Exercise too hard and you risk injury and exhaustion or you may burn out and stop exercising altogether. On the other hand, if you don't work out hard enough, you may not get the results you want. The best way to measure intensity is to watch your heart rate as you exercise. According to the American College of Sports Medicine, your predicted maximum heart rate can be estimated by subtracting your age from 220. This is the maximum number of times your heart can beat in a minute. Then multiply that number by .55 and by .9 to find the range that is your heart rate training zone. For example, if you are 35 years old, you have a predicted maximum heart rate of 185 beats per minute (220-35 = 185). Your lower limit is 102 beats per minute (.55 x 185), and your upper limit in the zone is 166 (.9 x 185). Working in the appropriate training zone makes it easier to exercise for a sufficient period of time and to continue with an effective exercise program for weight loss or cardiovascular fitness," said James Skinner, Ph.D., Indiana University, and a member of the Life Fitness Academy Scientific and Medical Advisory Board. If you have a very low level of fitness or haven't exercised in a long time, 55 percent may be an effective place to begin your workouts, but a more conditioned person should work closer to 70 to 85 percent of his/her maximum heart rate. Depending on individual goals, most people who typically follow a regular exercise program should sustain at least 70 to 80 percent of their maximum heart rate for 20 to 60 minutes. There are several ways to monitor your heart rate, including manually checking your pulse, and through using a variety of equipment, such as a heart rate monitor or hand sensors on fitness equipment. Checking your pulse can be done by using the first two fingers of one hand to apply light pressure at the carotid artery on the neck or the radial artery in the wrist. Count the beats for 10 seconds and multiply by six to get your heart rate for one minute. Heart rate monitors, such as those available from leading manufacturer Polar®, include a chest strap and a wristwatch type receiver. The strap picks up your heart rate and the receiver displays the result, making it an accurate and convenient way to measure your heart rate. Finally, leading equipment manufacturers such as Life Fitness typically offer features on their equipment that measure your heart rate as well. Some allow you to wear your heart rate monitoring strap and the machine's console will display your heart rate (just like your wrist receiver would). Also, some equipment offers hand sensors that you can grip and the machine will measure your heart rate and transmit the reading to the console. Once your heart rate is determined, usually it is up to you to adjust your workout to keep your heart rate in your target zone. If your heart rate is too low, you may need to jog or pedal faster, for instance. If it is too high, you may want to slow down a bit. Some equipment, however, makes adjustments for you. For example, many machines from Life Fitness, including treadmills, elliptical cross-trainers, stairclimbers and Lifecycle upright and recumbent exercise bikes offer workouts that measure your heart rate and automatically adjust the level of resistance to keep your heart rate at the chosen level. Because the machine does the work here, this lets you just get on and go, without constantly having to monitor your heart rate. A heart that pumps more blood with each contraction is working efficiently, so it will not have to contract as often. This increased efficiency results in a lower resting heart rate, and a greater work capacity - which are signs of enhanced fitness. "Cardiovascular exercise is an important part of any consistent exercise routine if you want to improve your overall health, fitness and longevity," says Paul Thompson, M.D., director of the Preventive Cardiology Program at Hartford Hospital, Hartford, Conn. "Building a stronger heart is the best life insurance there is." When beginning any exercise program, it is important to first consult your physician. For assistance in developing a program that will help you exercise safely and ultimately achieve your fitness goals. Also check with your local fitness facilities for personal trainers who can help create a program for you and at your health club or when purchasing equipment for your home, look for cardiovascular equipment that monitors your heart rate and automatically adjusts resistance to keep you where you need to be. Source: Life Fitness Article Database
Paddling technique is not so much a matter of definitives but rather a series of theories and opinions. However over recent years where paddle-sports have taken on a higher professional profile so too has there been a deeper study into the mechanics of efficient paddling techniques related to any given paddle craft. Jason Somerville-Kimlin of Mooloolaba Outrigger Canoe Club, formerly of Outrigger Australia and one of Australia's most respected and experienced outrigger paddlers, outlines what is currently being promoted as the most efficient use of both body and blade.
AN EFFICIENT TECHNIQUE IS THE KEY TO ENJOYABLE AND FAST OUTRIGGER CANOEING. In any endurance sport efficiency is the key to getting the best results with the least amount of effort and of all canoeing, outrigger and marathon racing puts the highest premium on efficiency. Observing a canoe race, you'll notice the leaders go by looking relaxed and going fast. Sometimes they don't appear to be working very hard. Then the rest of the teams follow, each one going slower but appearing to be working much harder than the leaders. What's going on here? Do the leaders have a much faster canoe? The fact is, they are simply much more efficient in their technique than the teams which they are beating. Outrigger canoe racing is an endurance sport. The leaders of a cross-country ski race or a runner in a marathon or triathlon appear to be gliding along with minimal effort. Their motions are just enough to get the job done without wasting precious energy. Hence the rule in endurance sports: WORKING HARD DOES NOT ENSURE THAT YOU ARE GOING TO GO FAST! You can take your paddle and attack the water with it, straining every muscle in your body, throwing up big rooster-tails behind you, or you can slice your blade into the water, anchoring it solidly and using your entire torso, pulling it smoothly and evenly with much better results. Not only is good technique energy-saving and fast, it is easy to learn because it is so simple. Part of the learning process requires that you have a clear picture in your mind of how a paddler moves the canoe through the water. THE CANOE IS BEING PULLED FORWARD THROUGH THE WATER UP TO THE PADDLE, WHICH ACTS AS AN ANCHOR IN-THE WATER (AKIN TO A MOUNTAINEER CLIMBING UPWARD WITH THEIR ICE AXE). THE CANOE IS BEING PULLED FORWARD NOT PUSHED. Reach forward as far as you can without bending or hinging at the waist, at the beginning of the stroke. Remember this principle and you overcome one of the major technical problems most canoeists have, that is, trying to move the canoe forward by pushing through entering the paddle too far back and continuing the stroke too far behind. TO PULL RATHER THAN PUSH THE CANOE THROUGH THE WATER, REACH FORWARD AS FAR AS YOU CAN (WITHOUT BENDING OR HINGING AT THE WAIST) AT THE BEGINNING OF THE STROKE AND END THE STROKE JUST BEFORE YOUR LOWER HAND REACHES YOUR HIP. Use your body in the stroke. Most paddlers are all arms, attempting to generate all the power with the relatively small bicep and tricep muscles of the arms rather than using, in combination, the muscles of the torso which are far larger and more capable. By keeping the stroke in front of you, you will be leaning slightly forward and you using the stomach and back muscles by rotating on (around) your spine. Dropping your lower shoulder and rotating, you will be able to extend and pull on that arm using the latissimus dorsi muscle of your back. Using the larger, stronger muscles of the torso is one of the secrets behind the leaders looking less wiped out at the finish line than the stragglers. Entering the blade rather than attacking, or stabbing at the water place the blade cleanly in the water. Do not start the stroke until the blade is in the water (this will cause cavitation and you will not get full power from your stroke). A clean, silent entry is the beginning of a good stroke. Note too, that your lower arm should be fully extended and straight. Pull the canoe up to the blade and firmly anchor the blade in deeply before making the pull; pull down and across with your top hand and down and back with your lower hand, keeping your elbows locked. If you have sliced the blade in cleanly and buried the whole blade in the water you will have a solid anchor from which you can pull the canoe. You have now come to the main part of the stroke where your objective is to lever yourself and the canoe forward to the anchor point of the paddle. Your lower body should be firmly positioned in the canoe to fully transfer energy from the paddle to the canoe. Likewise, you do not want any extra movement in your arms that would absorb or deflect energy from moving the canoe forward. This involves keeping your arms in the entry position, swinging down and through from your shoulders. Try to push down and across with your top hand and pull down and back on your lower hand, smoothly and equally. Watch your hands and make sure that they move through the stroke at the same rate, neither faster than the other. End the stroke just before your lower hand reaches your hip.
Helpful Hints
Try the techniques shown with locked elbows, this will force you to sit up and rotate.
Add the minimum bend necessary to your arms for comfort.
Try to keep a flat back and keep your chin up, this will afford the maximum oxygen and will help keep your shoulder and neck muscles relaxed.
Don't forget to get drive from your leading leg.
Keep your face muscles relaxed and remember to breath!
Keep your concentration in the canoe and remember that is it the thoughtful application of power that makes each and every stroke count.
Cardiovascular Exercise and Fitness Paddling
In any endurance sport efficiency is the key to getting the best results with the least amount of effort and of all canoeing, outrigger and marathon racing puts the highest premium on efficiency. Observing a canoe race, you'll notice the leaders go by looking relaxed and going fast. Sometimes they don't appear to be working very hard. Then the rest of the teams follow, each one going slower but appearing to be working much harder than the leaders. What's going on here? Do the leaders have a much faster canoe? The fact is, they are simply much more efficient in their technique than the teams which they are beating. Outrigger canoe racing is an endurance sport. The leaders of a cross-country ski race or a runner in a marathon or triathlon appear to be gliding along with minimal effort. Their motions are just enough to get the job done without wasting precious energy. Hence the rule in endurance sports: WORKING HARD DOES NOT ENSURE THAT YOU ARE GOING TO GO FAST! You can take your paddle and attack the water with it, straining every muscle in your body, throwing up big rooster-tails behind you, or you can slice your blade into the water, anchoring it solidly and using your entire torso, pulling it smoothly and evenly with much better results. Not only is good technique energy-saving and fast, it is easy to learn because it is so simple. Part of the learning process requires that you have a clear picture in your mind of how a paddler moves the canoe through the water. THE CANOE IS BEING PULLED FORWARD THROUGH THE WATER UP TO THE PADDLE, WHICH ACTS AS AN ANCHOR IN-THE WATER (AKIN TO A MOUNTAINEER CLIMBING UPWARD WITH THEIR ICE AXE). THE CANOE IS BEING PULLED FORWARD NOT PUSHED. Reach forward as far as you can without bending or hinging at the waist, at the beginning of the stroke. Remember this principle and you overcome one of the major technical problems most canoeists have, that is, trying to move the canoe forward by pushing through entering the paddle too far back and continuing the stroke too far behind. TO PULL RATHER THAN PUSH THE CANOE THROUGH THE WATER, REACH FORWARD AS FAR AS YOU CAN (WITHOUT BENDING OR HINGING AT THE WAIST) AT THE BEGINNING OF THE STROKE AND END THE STROKE JUST BEFORE YOUR LOWER HAND REACHES YOUR HIP. Use your body in the stroke. Most paddlers are all arms, attempting to generate all the power with the relatively small bicep and tricep muscles of the arms rather than using, in combination, the muscles of the torso which are far larger and more capable. By keeping the stroke in front of you, you will be leaning slightly forward and you using the stomach and back muscles by rotating on (around) your spine. Dropping your lower shoulder and rotating, you will be able to extend and pull on that arm using the latissimus dorsi muscle of your back. Using the larger, stronger muscles of the torso is one of the secrets behind the leaders looking less wiped out at the finish line than the stragglers. Entering the blade rather than attacking, or stabbing at the water place the blade cleanly in the water. Do not start the stroke until the blade is in the water (this will cause cavitation and you will not get full power from your stroke). A clean, silent entry is the beginning of a good stroke. Note too, that your lower arm should be fully extended and straight. Pull the canoe up to the blade and firmly anchor the blade in deeply before making the pull; pull down and across with your top hand and down and back with your lower hand, keeping your elbows locked. If you have sliced the blade in cleanly and buried the whole blade in the water you will have a solid anchor from which you can pull the canoe. You have now come to the main part of the stroke where your objective is to lever yourself and the canoe forward to the anchor point of the paddle. Your lower body should be firmly positioned in the canoe to fully transfer energy from the paddle to the canoe. Likewise, you do not want any extra movement in your arms that would absorb or deflect energy from moving the canoe forward. This involves keeping your arms in the entry position, swinging down and through from your shoulders. Try to push down and across with your top hand and pull down and back on your lower hand, smoothly and equally. Watch your hands and make sure that they move through the stroke at the same rate, neither faster than the other. End the stroke just before your lower hand reaches your hip.
Everyone knows that exercising is one of most powerful things you can do to improve your health. Regular cardiovascular exercise makes your heart stronger and more efficient, burns calories, lowers your blood pressure and helps keep you mentally sharp. However, it is important to exercise properly to get optimum results and help you achieve your goals. With today's busy schedules, no one has time to waste on ineffective or inefficient exercise. Performing cardiovascular work at the correct level of intensity is essential. Exercise too hard and you risk injury and exhaustion or you may burn out and stop exercising altogether. On the other hand, if you don't work out hard enough, you may not get the results you want. The best way to measure intensity is to watch your heart rate as you exercise. According to the American College of Sports Medicine, your predicted maximum heart rate can be estimated by subtracting your age from 220. This is the maximum number of times your heart can beat in a minute. Then multiply that number by .55 and by .9 to find the range that is your heart rate training zone. For example, if you are 35 years old, you have a predicted maximum heart rate of 185 beats per minute (220-35 = 185). Your lower limit is 102 beats per minute (.55 x 185), and your upper limit in the zone is 166 (.9 x 185). Working in the appropriate training zone makes it easier to exercise for a sufficient period of time and to continue with an effective exercise program for weight loss or cardiovascular fitness," said James Skinner, Ph.D., Indiana University, and a member of the Life Fitness Academy Scientific and Medical Advisory Board. If you have a very low level of fitness or haven't exercised in a long time, 55 percent may be an effective place to begin your workouts, but a more conditioned person should work closer to 70 to 85 percent of his/her maximum heart rate. Depending on individual goals, most people who typically follow a regular exercise program should sustain at least 70 to 80 percent of their maximum heart rate for 20 to 60 minutes. There are several ways to monitor your heart rate, including manually checking your pulse, and through using a variety of equipment, such as a heart rate monitor or hand sensors on fitness equipment. Checking your pulse can be done by using the first two fingers of one hand to apply light pressure at the carotid artery on the neck or the radial artery in the wrist. Count the beats for 10 seconds and multiply by six to get your heart rate for one minute. Heart rate monitors, such as those available from leading manufacturer Polar®, include a chest strap and a wristwatch type receiver. The strap picks up your heart rate and the receiver displays the result, making it an accurate and convenient way to measure your heart rate. Finally, leading equipment manufacturers such as Life Fitness typically offer features on their equipment that measure your heart rate as well. Some allow you to wear your heart rate monitoring strap and the machine's console will display your heart rate (just like your wrist receiver would). Also, some equipment offers hand sensors that you can grip and the machine will measure your heart rate and transmit the reading to the console. Once your heart rate is determined, usually it is up to you to adjust your workout to keep your heart rate in your target zone. If your heart rate is too low, you may need to jog or pedal faster, for instance. If it is too high, you may want to slow down a bit. Some equipment, however, makes adjustments for you. For example, many machines from Life Fitness, including treadmills, elliptical cross-trainers, stairclimbers and Lifecycle upright and recumbent exercise bikes offer workouts that measure your heart rate and automatically adjust the level of resistance to keep your heart rate at the chosen level. Because the machine does the work here, this lets you just get on and go, without constantly having to monitor your heart rate. A heart that pumps more blood with each contraction is working efficiently, so it will not have to contract as often. This increased efficiency results in a lower resting heart rate, and a greater work capacity - which are signs of enhanced fitness. "Cardiovascular exercise is an important part of any consistent exercise routine if you want to improve your overall health, fitness and longevity," says Paul Thompson, M.D., director of the Preventive Cardiology Program at Hartford Hospital, Hartford, Conn. "Building a stronger heart is the best life insurance there is." When beginning any exercise program, it is important to first consult your physician. For assistance in developing a program that will help you exercise safely and ultimately achieve your fitness goals. Also check with your local fitness facilities for personal trainers who can help create a program for you and at your health club or when purchasing equipment for your home, look for cardiovascular equipment that monitors your heart rate and automatically adjusts resistance to keep you where you need to be. Source: Life Fitness Article Database
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